Jewish Maghrib Jukebox

Friday, November 7, 2008

Back to Tiznit – Oct 22

I arrived back in Tiznit a little disappointed but realized that just going to this village would have been enough (in the spirit of dayeinu) but speaking with folks there and seeking out the remnants of Jewish history was an accomplishment in and of itself. For the life of me I couldn’t find the cemetery in Tiznit. This is usually the easiest thing to find in a city. I decided to call it quits so to speak and to hop into a taxi. The driver took me straight to the cemetery. It was surrounded by wall but clearly there was no guardian. The only door in was locked. The walls were high. There was a pile of rocks in which I could peer over just enough to confirm that this was indeed the cemetery. Only a few dozen graves remained and I couldn’t get a good enough look to determine whether or not there still remained any Hebrew. I decided to try and jump the wall. I first had to make sure there were no guard dogs inside that were ready to attack. The whole experience was surreal and eerie. There was decaying livestock around the cemetery and I had a bad feeling about the whole thing. I nonetheless pulled together large stones and cement block in order to get myself to such a position where I would be able to pull myself to the top of the wall. I did so successfully (after a few tries) and walked the length of the wall to an area where I could safely let myself down. I approached the remaining graves, constantly looking behind me, but found no Hebrew inscriptions left. Then I noticed a dog. A dead dog. I couldn’t figure out how it got in or how it died but it was very, very unpleasant. I took my pictures and left quickly having been just a little bit spooked.

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