Lunch in Oujda

After the synagogue I prepared to say goodbye. Shukran wa Hag Sameah. But they insisted I join them for lunch. For about an hour I sat with one of the women as she patiently conversed with me about everything and anything. I mentioned that I had gone to Rissani to see the home of the Baba Sali and that I had been to his hilloula in Israel. She excitedly told me that she was related to Baba Baruch and Sidna Baba Sali and then quickly covered and uncovered her eyes blessing him and his family.

The house I am in looks large. There is space. I am seated in the living room. The woman I am speaking to is fascinating. Her family is originally from Figuig, the oasis town of 200k palm trees about 7 hours south of here. The cemeteries are destroyed she says but I have seen at least one picture that makes me believe there are at least some tombstones untouched. Her family used to travel to Algeria she tells me. They would visit Oran. The Grand Synagogue there (which I will link to shortly) has been turned into a mosque (true). She was last there about 15 years ago. She knew all the important centers of Jewish life in Algeria. I asked her if she knew Ghardaia in the Mzab. She definitely knew it. In fact come to think of it the syangogue in Oujda and Ghardaia have many similarities including the stained glass. The syangogue is abandoned but still stands I told her.

She began to set the table carefully placing plate upon bowl upon plate and then finishing off with a checkered red and white cloth napkin. We sat – 3 Jewish women – and me. Round matzah filled the table. We spoke about everything from Israel to food prices in America. They wanted me to tell them how much I made in the US and if I liked Obama. We ate salads, meatballs, telfas (a Passover quiche), lamb and peas. Needless to say – everything was delicious. We finished our meal with fruit, tea, and coffee. I went to bid them farewell and they asked me to come again for dinner.

I cant wait.

The Grand Syangogue in Oujda

Unbelievable. We entered the building and ascended a flight of stairs. That leads you to the main sanctuary. It is huge. Mens section alone could accomodate hundreds. Benches were all there. Although I dont know the exact condition of the roof I know it is holding up well enough (despite some holes and leaking) to leave the synagogue in moderate-good shape. The teva (bima) is intact. The ark is there with beautiful stained glass. We ascended another set of stairs to the womans section. This could also accomodate many – maybe 100. There are rooms for celebrations and rooms for study. There is even a childrens bathroom with very low sinks. There are books and calendars and probably much more that is not immediately visible. On my way out I noticed a brit millah (circumcision) chair. I was stunned. We exited and I thanked God for the transportation strike. None of this might have happened without it. We walked back to their home and I thanked them profusely. Shukran wa Hag Sameah. Wont you join us for lunch? She asked.

Khubz haram

I headed back to town. There is no mellah in Oujda but certainly a Jewish area. It was there I began my search for the last half dozen Jewish women in Oujda – one of whom I hoped had the key to synagogue. I knocked at the door and a woman answered.

Who am I? I thought. How would I explain that I wanted to see the synagogue because I wanted to see the synagogue? That I hoped to help restore it.

The synagogue in question is known as the Grand Synagogue. It was the pride of Oujda Jewish community and supposedly could accomodate some 700 worshippers.

I told her who I was as best I could. Hag Sameah I said to her. I told her who I knew as best I could. Baruch hashem I said after another remark. I was sure I would be kicked to the curb but I wasnt. She told me that khubz (bread) was haram (forbidden) during Passover. Of course I said. I had matzah in my hotel. She invited me in for coffee and matzah.

After some conversation and vetting from her and a second Jewish woman they agreed to show me the synagogue. Wow.

Transit strike strikes again - in Oujda

Woke up early and headed to central bus station and grand taxi stand. Spotted taxis to Jeradda. One was nearly full...but with taxi drivers. Grand taxis continued to strike. Headed to bus station and almost all buses were grounded including ones to Jeradda and Berkane. Heading back to Oujda to find woman with keys to the syangogue.

Oujda – Day 1 (April 11)

Oujda is the largest city in Eastern Morocco and sits directly across from Tlemcen and close to Oran in Algeria. The border has been closed for some years but you can imagine what the city was once like when Algerians and Moroccans passed back and forth – like they did historically. Most people I have spoken to on the subject have told me that the East is not as friendly as other parts of the country. Beyond a general unfriendliness they tell me, there is also lacking the nostalgia that other parts of the country have for their departed Jewish communities.

I had planned on waking up early and trying to first head for Djeradda and if that was impossible then to head to Berkane where there is a large Jewish cemetery: instead I slept in – it is my birthday today afterall – and I made the right decision. It has been raining all day and things have been moving very slowly. I decided to check out the Grande Synagogue during lunch. It is located only a few hundred meters from my hotel. I decided to eat at a restaurant next door to the synagogue and then to chat up someone at the restaurant in order to find out more about access. My hope was that with a wall in common perhaps there was a window that looked out into the synagogue or even a door that opened to the synagogue or perhaps a view from the roof – anything. It turns out I spoke to the wrong gentleman.

Is that a synagogue next door? I asked (I knew it was but just wanted to start the conversation) Yes but its closed.

Are you Muslim?

No, Im Jewish.

Why dont you convert?

Well, Im Jewish just like youre Muslim – everyone has their…

Religion (in unison)

Does anyone have a key?

No.

No one?

No.

Ok, thank you so much.

It turns out that there is a woman with a key. I hope to meet her on Sunday. Keys to an abandoned synagogue (one of the largest synagogues in Morocco) would be a wonderful belated bday gift.

To Oujda - April 10

I had two train options for Oujda, a 615 am qnd 1215 pm – I opted for the later. There continues to be a petit taxi strike throughout the country that is severely harming intra-city mobility. The 615 would have required a taxi and I just didnt think that was going to be a feasible option so I got some rest and hoped on the 1215. The ride to Oujda was 10 hrs with a transfer in Fes. It felt like all 10 hrs. I arrived to the city at around 10 pm. From the train you arrive at the Ville Nouvelle. The streets are wide and clean with similarly wide and clean sidewalks. Streets were well lit. I found my hotel easily.

Passover - gefilte fish + tripe

The next day I joined the same family for lunch. After more discussion I discovered I wasnt the only guest there. The Rabbi sitting next to me was also a guest. He was knowledgeable and erudite. He had forgone a family for some reason and his relatives all lived in Israel The gentleman to my left was also a guest. His family was living in Israel but he had decided to stay. I had assumed he was the grandfather but he wasnt. Another man joined us. Charity the english speakers in the family told me. I recognized him from my pilgrimage to R. David u-Moshe in Agouim. He was there to collect alms at the hilloula and I was now seeing him again in Casablanca – this time looking for a Passover meal. This family was truly hospitable. We ended the meal with a dish that I wish I could have taken a picture of. It was the spiciest Moroccan dish I had ever eaten. It was a traditional Jewish holiday meal of tripe and cheek. I ate dutifully and enjoyed but dont know that I would necessarily order it at a restaurant. I had some tea and headed back to my hotel.